CoreXY

Talk about a curb alert.

A friend of a friend had a 3D printer which needed some repairs, so he was planning to put it out on the curb. He contacted me at my friend’s suggestion and gave it to me to fix up. (Thanks, Dan and Grandin!)

Large printer is large. (Banana for scale.)

The printer turned out to be a “Mankati Fullscale XT Plus” printer. (Yeah, I hadn’t heard of Mankati, either.) They may not have great name recognition (and it appears they may be out of business at this point), but they built a very solid printer. Not to mention a rather large one. 36kg doesn’t sound like much, but this thing is a beast. The build volume is insane for a hobbyist / consumer 3D printer — 260x260x300mm. (Yes, the Z axis is the largest.) This is over 20 liters — something like 2.3 times the size of my next-largest printer. It’s insane — and it can get away with it because it’s mostly enclosed, and …

Similar to Ultimaker-style machines, the XT Plus uses a CoreXY scheme, where the print head moves in X and Y, and the bed moves in Z. This has the advantage of moving the actual part hardly at all, while the (more secure) print head moves around rapidly. I’ve wanted to play with one for a while. It should certainly cut down on bed adhesion problems.

CoreXY means the print head moves in X and Y, and the part in Z.
This greatly reduces stresses on the part base due to shaking in Y.

Like pretty much all CoreXY machines, the XT Plus uses a Bowden extruder setup, with two NEMA-17 extruder steppers mounted neatly on the back case. These drive all-metal geared extruders which look as professional as anything I’ve seen on a 3D printer. From the extruders, the filament follows a Bowden tube to the print head, which rides on a set of Cartesian rails at the top of the printer.

The Bowden tubes are fed by two solid metal geared extruders.

The gantry appears to be a machined block of aluminum, with feedthrough holes for the filament and mounting holes for the hot ends and fan shroud. Like the rest of the mechanics, it looks and feels very solid.

When I got the printer, the left hot end had been disassembled, possibly because one of the wires to its thermistor had broken, causing the printer to throw an error. A quick solder job and some shrink tubing solved that.

It was at about this point that I noticed that this was a 3mm filament machine. I’m a 1.75mm shop — 1.75mm extruders, 1.75mm throats, 1.75mm nozzles … so 3mm hardware might as well have been built by aliens. At least it came with two reels of filament. I just had to hope I wouldn’t find any serious problems with the hot end, or I’d be ordering hardware before printing anything (hey, still an awesome deal.)

There’s nothing wrong with 3mm filament — and several reasons to prefer it. The vast majority of hobbyist 3D printers use 1.75mm, however, so it’s much easier to find parts for that format. It’s kind of like shopping for Beta videotapes, after VHS won the format war. They may be better quality, but your selection is lacking.

Fortunately, the hardware was all in good shape. After reassembly, the hot end was back up and extruding.

Extruder #1 is up and running. (Extruder #2 may get converted to 1.75mm.)

I initially tried printing one of the test pieces on the included SD card — a model couch sized as if for a dollhouse. I selected the 250u resolution one, and the printer started to do its thing. Everything looked OK except the #2 nozzle was dragging across the print, tearing up whatever had just been laid down.

Walk before you run, I figured, and once the hot end had cooled down, I removed the second hot end. A second try at the built-in couch model produced a good print at a surprisingly high speed.

The next thing I wanted to try was to get Simplify3D to talk to it. I had read that USB communication wasn’t possible (even though the printer has a visible USB port), and that prints had to be copied via SD card.

Apparently you can’t believe everything you read on the Internet, because S3D had no problems at all recognizing the printer and sending it commands. I was initially concerned about managing profiles and printer settings, since the Mankati is so different from either of my other printers, but creating a new S3D process solved that nicely. I wasn’t initially sold on the whole idea of processes — but I’m convinced.

Now that I had S3D set up to talk to the printer, the next obvious step was to print a 3DBenchy. Other than some horrendous stringing (to be expected on a Bowden running non-Bowden slicer settings), it turned out pretty well.

Next, I tried a high-resolution test: Wild Rose Builds’ interlocking cube puzzle, at 100u resolution. This took several hours even at 70mm/sec and high acceleration, but turned out nicely, with very smooth, even walls.

So, the verdict: It’s big, it’s heavy, it’s loud, and it’s certainly weird, but it’s mechanically a very big, solid, fast, capable machine — and those are some of the hardest (most expensive) things to get right in 3D printers. It’s too bad Mankati is out of business — but as modular as 3D printers are and as solidly built as this one is, at least this particular printer should be around for a while.

Posted in 3D Printing, Reviews, Tools | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Apollo 11

Fifty years ago today, humans did something pretty cool. We managed to land two of us on the Moon and then bring them back home safely. Half a century later, it’s still an impressive accomplishment — and one which we haven’t duplicated since that era.

Follow the descent from Lunar orbit to Tranquility Base in “real time” (plus exactly fifty years) by starting the following video clip at 19:59:42 UTC today (July 19, 2019). This is equivalent to 15:59:42 EDT for the U.S. East Coast; 14:59:42, 13:59:42, and 12:59:42 respectively for CDT, MDT, and PDT. (If you’re from one of those enlightened areas that don’t use Daylight Subverting Time, you’re probably smart enough to understand UTC, too.)

Start this video at eighteen seconds before 4PM Eastern on 2019-07-20
to follow along “live” exactly fifty years later.

(Spoiler alert: They almost run out of fuel, but they make it okay.)

Posted in Aviation, Current Events, Nostalgia | Leave a comment

Reverse Shoplifting

Engineers love gadgets. Sometimes, we even anthropomorphize them a bit and get attached to pieces of vintage gear that we don’t really use anymore. The lure of the New And Shiny is strong, yes, but there’s something about the glow of vacuum tubes, too.

For many of us, though, it’s somehow okay if we know that a beloved piece of gear — or even just a nostalgic example of 1980s-era DIP memory — is going to a good home. It’s easier to part with a vintage Tektronix ‘scope if it means that a new electronics hobbyist will be able to use it to see the angry pixies in the wires. At least it’s not going into the trash.

Reusing vintage gear is what hamfests are all about. Even if you’ve been in the hobby for decades, a good hamfest will mean you’ll see at least one piece of gear that takes you a moment to identify — and probably, several new variations on tools you didn’t know existed. Field strength meters powered by the radio signals they monitor. Analog computers, designed to calculate how much feed to give your dairy cattle (I really hope that’s still in a box around here somewhere). Hopefully-declassified military surplus gear. It’s all fascinating.

The downside is that, for most people, space is limited. At some point, cubic-meters-in must not exceed cubic-meters-out. Hamfests provide the best way to rehome surplus gear — but sometimes, nobody is looking for the particular boat anchors that you brought to offload. After a few trips back and forth, you wish they weren’t taking up space — but you just don’t have the heart to put that vintage HP signal generator in the trash. What To Do?

The solution — Reverse Shoplifting — is one of the coolest, if somewhat dubious, Chaotic Good traditions I’ve come across. In the course of wandering around a hamfest, it’s not unusual to see an interesting item for sale and want to take a closer look. (That’s why you’re there in the first place, after all!) So you set down the random piece of gear you were ostensibly carrying back to your car after having purchased it, and take a look at what the seller has on the table. Maybe you even buy it. After all, it got your attention.

In the confusion, it’s not unheard of to forget the item you were originally carrying, and absentmindedly wander off, leaving it there. Perhaps this is the Universe’s way of telling you that your boat anchor had found its new owner. Perhaps entropy will decrease a tiny bit more slowly when a piece of gear gets another shot at usefulness instead of heading to a landfill.

Or maybe, you think to yourself as you slip away as nonchalantly but quickly as you can, you’ll actually have room in the car for that antenna tower the guy in the cube van was selling.

This post is dedicated to the memory of my Elmer: Frank H. Gentges AK4R/K0BRA.
Thanks for teaching me not just the nuts and bolts, but the lore, too.

Posted in HOW-TO, Humor, Lore, Nostalgia | Leave a comment

Multi-material 3D Printing with Palette+


Hobbyist 3D printers get more capable each year — and generally, these advances come in the form of potential upgrades or add-ons. The modularity of Prusa-type FDM printers means that just about any part can be swapped out and replaced as needed.

Until recently, hobbyist 3D printers have been nearly all single-extruder devices, capable of printing with only one material at a time. Multiple-nozzle extruder schemes exist, from a basic dual-extruder setup to exotics like the four-nozzle, water-cooled Kraken (which looks awesome but is worthless unless a viable toolchain exists.)

The four-extruder, water-cooled Kraken.

These come with their own problems — mainly ones of calibration. If the extruder has more than one nozzle, the nozzle tips must always be at exactly the same Z offset. Otherwise, the lowest nozzle will inevitably drag across the printed plastic deposited by the others. X and possibly Y offsets must also be set — but this is easily handled in software.

It would be nice if a single-nozzle solution existed — and now, it does. The folks at Mosaic have come up with one solution to the problem — create a custom-spliced filament and feed it into an unmodified 3D printer.

Note: The Palette+ referenced in this article is last year’s model. The new Palette2 and Palette2 Pro do the same job, but with some additional refinements. They also cost less. Progress!

A sample of custom-spliced filament made by the Palette+

This is a subtler process than it seems at first. 3D printers vary slightly in the rate at which they use filament in a given print. This can even vary somewhat throughout the print. If a single extruder is used with a variegated feedstock and you want nice clean color transitions in your print, the color transitions need to be at the right point in the filament so the new color comes along just as the printer is getting ready to print a feature in that color. If the amount of filament actually used (as opposed to commanded) isn’t tracked by some closed-loop process, the position of transitions will inevitably drift, leading to increasingly inaccurate color transitions.

Worse, when the filament changes from one color to another, the process takes some time — longer if transitioning from dark to light filaments, shorter if transitioning from light to dark (generally speaking). Even if the color transitions happen at exactly the right locations, the change will generally be gradual and smeared, as the plastic in the hot end is gradually replaced.

Transition towers (or other purge methods) help with this.  When transitioning between colors, the material near the transition is deposited into a sacrificial tower or block. This unfortunately wastes a lot of plastic, but it does ensure clean transitions as long as the transitions happen at close to the right time. The color smearing happens — ideally — on the transition tower, and not on the part being printed.

A (short) transition tower. (Corresponding part not shown.)  As partial compensation for the extra plastic and time, some of these are genuinely beautiful.

The “secret sauce” to producing custom filament and transition towers involves two key parts: an autosplicer and custom gcode-processing software.

To combine up to four different filaments into a single stream, Mosaic’s Palette+ autosplicer uses seven stepper motors, a heater block, various sensors, a microcontroller, and custom-machined guides to precisely cut and splice the filament as instructed by the Chroma software. Four filaments enter; one combined stream leaves. It’s over-engineered as hell. This is not just engineering, but art. Fittingly, it’s housed in a very solid enameled stainless-steel case. Just don’t drop it on your foot. It’s a beast.

The Palette+ autosplicer, with its cover off.
(Image from Hackaday.com)

As an example of how the process works, here are the steps needed to produce a four-color print, using Sketchup for modeling and Simplify3D as the slicer.


The first step is to produce separate .stl files for each material of the process. These .stl files should not overlap geometrically in any places (since two different materials can’t occupy the same point in space.) Support requirements apply to the union of all of the materials, however. It’s OK if parts of one or more colors appear to be floating in midair, as long as they will be supported by other colors in the final print.

The four pieces of the model, separated.

These separate models are then made into groups and brought together in their correct final arrangement. This gives the resulting .stl files a common origin, so they can be easily combined in S3D. (One trick is to create the files with a uniform spacing of something like 50mm or 100mm, so moving them back when done is easy.)

The pieces of the model, with a common origin point.

The four models are then exported, one at a time. It’s a good idea to label them with the intended colors at this point, since the next step is to assign a separate process (and tool) to each of the models. This is what will tell Chroma which filament to use for which part. The printer has only one extruder, of course, but Chroma will use the tool information to know when the color transitions happen.

Next, the four models are imported into Simplify3D. They will probably be lined up in a row. Hold Shift and click on “Center and Arrange,” and they will all snap to the center. Make sure they look like they are correctly aligned, with no missing pieces.

Checking the fit in Simplify3D. (Those holes are intentional.)

The next step is to create four (usually identical except the tool number) processes in S3D. These should each use a different tool for the extruder (usually, 0, 1, 2, and 3 respectively.) I like to keep the rest of the settings the same. You especially should match layer height, bed temperature, flow rate, and other settings which could cause incompatibilities.) Assign each process to exactly one of the models with the “Select models” button at the bottom left of the dialog box. When all four are done, preview the print and choose to color by process/tool. If it looks right, save the .gcode file — but don’t hit Print just yet.

S3D preview, showing the four processes.

Now the first step is done — but we still need to make the transition tower and calculate the lengths of the splices for the Palette+ autosplicer. This is done in Chroma — special postprocessing software created by Mosaic for the Palette+ and other splicers.

In Chroma, click on Load Model and select the .gcode file you just made. Chroma will pause and analyze it for a few moments. When finished, it will display a preview of the model plus a transition tower. Clicking on the colored circles next to the four material selections at the top will allow you to change the colors of the model. (These serve to inform you and Chroma which colors are which — you, so you can load the correct filaments, and Chroma, so it can estimate how long the transitions need to be, based on the starting and ending colors. The splicer itself can’t tell colors or materials apart; differences are specified here manually.)

Planning the colors and transition tower in Chroma. (The same size tower can serve for multiple copies of a part.)

This not only helps you visualize what the final print will look like, but gives Chroma some information about how long to make the transitions. Going from light to dark filament happens quickly, for instance — but going from dark to light can take more time, as the darker color is visible for much longer.

When you click Save for Printer, Chroma will output two files: a file ending in .msf for the Palette+ autosplicer, and a modified .msf.gcode file to be printed. The .msf file is loaded onto a SD card to be put into the Palette+, since the Palette+ only has USB support for firmware upgrades, and is basically a standalone unit. Once the SD card is loaded and the file is selected under the Multicolor menu, the Palette+ will start producing filament after a few minutes’ warm-up time.

The .msf file goes on the Palette+’s SD card. Print the new .msf.gcode file, not the original one!

The .gcode file needs to be printed as usual — via SD card or Raspberry Pi or whatever. Simplify3D can still be used to preview the print in real time, provided you reload the new .gcode file using the “Preview .gcode file” option in the File menu. (The .msf script file controlling the autosplicer will expect the extra usage from the transition tower, as well as the included commanded pauses, so don’t print the original .gcode file.)

Once the .msf.gcode file is ready to print, the filament is loaded into the printer, passing through a distance measuring device to precisely monitor filament usage. The Palette+ will guide you as to the correct length of filament to feed into the printer. It will also judge how good a job you do; apparently an 0.3mm loading error (well within tolerances) is “Superb” loading. (I think I recall it deeming some of my first tries merely “acceptable.”)

The printer and splicer will then work together to produce the right lengths of each color of filament: calibrated pauses are built into the .gcode, causing the printer to periodically stop using filament for a few seconds at a time. The Palette+ detects this and uses this information to keep track of where the printer is in the print. It then adjusts the amount of filament produced so the transitions happen where they should.

The coin and its transition “tower.” (These are always the same height as the last color transition in the model.)

The process is definitely more involved than for single-color prints, but the results can be impressive.

Benchy Of Unusual Size.

It’s a surprisingly reliable process, if a bit complicated. Once I figured out that the filament has to stay dry in order to splice reliably, the Palette+ has been one of the most reliable parts of the printing process. (The new Palette2 does have USB control capability when used with the new Palette Hub.)

Happy printing!

Posted in 3D Printing, Reviews, Tools, Toys | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment