Mystery Device

On a recent thrift store expedition (you never know what you’re going to find), I came across an interesting-looking box. It was apparently designed to be wall-mounted, and had three bolts for electrical contacts and a large heatsink.

The mystery device, much as encountered at the thrift store. (Electrical insulating boots were covering the outer two bolts.) (Click for larger.)

Most of the device is actually a large passive aluminum heatsink. (Click for larger.)

It was apparently an electrical device of some sort — if the tie-point bolts didn’t give that away, the large heatsink would. The heatsink also implied that it was expected to dissipate a fair amount of power.

The three leads on the top were marked 1, 2, and A (A being the center bolt). My initial guess was that it was a rectifier of some sort — perhaps a battery isolator for marine or automotive applications. This was confirmed by an ohmmeter test: connecting the negative lead to A showed open circuits to pins 1 and 2, but reversing the leads showed 33 to 35 kilohms resistance.

Diodes, being nonlinear devices, can produce strange resistance readings, so I did a quick I-V curve test using a lab supply. Current was near zero up to 0.6V, then rose very sharply to over an amp near 0.7V. Silicon diodes, then, from A to both 1 and 2. It’s a rectifier.

Now that I had the puzzle basically solved, I felt it was no longer cheating to do a Google search. A few links later, I found something very similar: a two-battery, 70-amp battery isolator. Mystery solved!

Posted in Electronics, Power, Reverse Engineering | 1 Comment

Introduction to Breadboarding

One of the fastest, easiest ways to prototype a new design is by using a solderless breadboard. These accept through-hole devices and allow fast, reasonably secure connection of components with a minimum of wiring. An idea for a new circuit can be tried out in minutes instead of hours — and changes to the circuit can be made easily.

Solderless breadboards work by providing many holes containing electrical contacts, arranged in various useful connectivity patterns. These holes follow 0.1″ spacing (2.54mm in real units), and come in a variety of subtly-different configurations. The common theme is several dozen columns of connected holes, with a 0.3″ (7.62mm) gap in between. This allows for the use of 300-mil DIP components on the breadboard. (600-mil DIP parts can be used, as well, although they cover several rows of holes.)

Connection diagrams for three of the most common types are shown below:

A typical 830-hole solderless breadboard, such as those sold by MPJA (Click for larger.)

A "split dual rail" solderless breadboard. (Click for larger.)

A single-rail type solderless breadboard. (Click for larger.)

Here is a walkthrough of a simple introductory project (a blinking LED) using a solderless breadboard. Total component cost is about US$10.

I’ve provided links to sources for the components — but all of these can be found from many different vendors. MPJA does have good prices for the breadboard and wiring kit.

Materials needed:
(1) solderless breadboard (almost any type will do for this circuit)
(1) breadboard wiring kit
(1) LED (any color)
(1) 555 timer IC
(1) resistor kit, containing:
(1) 470-ohm resistor
(1) 1k resistor
(1) 6.8k resistor
(1) 100uF capactor
(1) 0.1uF capacitor

The parts needed for the 555 timer blinker project. (Click for larger.)

The circuit we will be building is an “astable oscillator,” using the venerable (read,  “so cheap, ubiquitous, easy-to-use, and reliable that it’s still very popular despite its age”) 555 timer IC. The IC allows C1 (100uF in this example) to charge from +5V via both resistors until it reaches 2/3 of Vcc, then discharges it through R2 (6.8k) until it reaches 1/3 of Vcc. This action provides a regular timing function, which is converted into a TTL rectangular-wave output by the 555. A 470-ohm resistor is used to limit current to an LED, which blinks at about 1Hz (that is, about once per second.) Changing the values of the resistors and/or C1 would change the blinking frequency. For instance, if a 50uF capacitor were used instead of a 100uF one, the LED would blink twice as quickly.

The schematic for a (roughly) 1Hz blinker, based on a 555 timer. (Click for larger.)

Procedure:
* Place the 555 on the board, straddling the center divide as shown. The 555 should be oriented so that the notch or dot identifying Pin 1 is on the left.

The 555 in position on the breadboard. (Click for larger.)

* Use a series of jumpers to connect pins 2 and 6 of the 555, as shown. (Pins on DIP components are numbered counter-clockwise from lower left, so Pin 2 is the second pin from the left on the bottom row, and Pin 6 is the second pin from the right on the upper row.)

Using three jumper wires to connect pins 2 and 6. (Click for larger.)

* Place the 0.1uF capacitor on the board as shown, including its jumper wires. Polarity doesn’t matter if you are using a ceramic capacitor.

Connecting the 0.1uF ceramic capacitor between Pin 5 and Ground. (Click for larger.)

* Place the 100uF capacitor on the board as shown, including its jumper wires. (Remember to check the polarity; the negative side should go to Ground.

The 100uF timing capacitor connected between Pin 2 and Ground. (Click for larger.)

* Place the two timing resistors (1k and 6.8k) on the board as shown, including a jumper connecting the end of the 6.8k resistor to pins 2 and 6.

Connecting the two timing resistors. Don't forget the jumper wire from the far (left) side of the 6.8k resistor. (Click for larger.)

* Connect a wire from the 5V power rail to Pin 4 of the 555 (the rightmost bottom pin)

Pin 4 is connected directly to +5V. (Click for larger.)

* Connect a wire from the 5V power rail to Pin 8 of the 555 (the upper left pin).

Pin 8 of the 555 is also connected directly to +5V. (Click for larger.)

* Connect a wire from the Ground power rail to Pin 1 of the 555 (the leftmost pin on the lower row.)

Pin 1 is connected directly to Ground. (Click for larger.)

* Connect a LED as shown. (The shorter pin should go to the Ground rail.)

Place the LED near the 555, as shown, leaving room for the 470 ohm resistor. The shorter pin of the LED goes to Ground. (Click for larger.)

* Connect the 470 ohm resistor between Pin 3 of the 555 and the LED as shown.

Connect a 470 ohm resistor between Pin 3 of the 555 and the positive (longer) lead of the LED, to complete the circuit. (Click for larger.)

The circuit should now be complete. Since it can be difficult to see everything that is going on through 2D pictures, here are some alternate-angle images of the timer resistors and 0.1uF cap, the 100uF cap, and the LED.

 

Posted in 555, Analog, Digital, EET201, EET205, Electronics, Fundamentals, HOW-TO, Level 2, Projects | Leave a comment

Ipad3 review

Okay — the “Retina Display” on the new iPad3 is pretty amazing. Apple claims it’s twice the resolution (four times the pixels) as the original, and I believe them. Text appears geometrically perfect, with no evidence of any pixels in sight — and high-resolution graphics like the scaled Satellite view in Google Maps are razor-sharp (at least until you zoom down beyond Google’s current imagery resolution.)

In addition to the display, the iPad3 has the usual front-and-back cameras, with the back camera apparently having higher resolution than the front one (which is generally used for video calls).

Other than the display and cameras, the iPad3 appears a lot like the iPad2 — slimmer and more rounded at the edges than the original. I still like the original design’s aesthetics best, but to each their own.

Using the iPad3 feels a lot like using the original iPad, except for that gorgeous display (which really does steal the show and really is that good.)

Until Apple gets a little less authoritarian about their ecosystem, I still don’t want one — but even I have to admit their hardware engineering is pretty amazing.

 

Posted in Current Events, Digital, Reviews | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Computational Fairy Tales

I love finding innovative ways to teach important STEM concepts. As much as I love electronics and everything you can do with it, even I understand that learning about Norton-Thévenin equivalents and pole plots can sometimes be quite dry. As much fun as programming can be, learning about loop invariants, order-of-operations, and the various types of data structures can be rather dull if not presented well.

Computational Fairy Tales, by Jeremy Kubica, is a really cool concept (teach the fundamentals of computer science by making the relevant concepts into fairy-tale plot devices) — and equally importantly, well-executed. Abstract concepts like functions, constants, and linked lists become much more memorable when told in the context of an adventure story or anecdote. Some of the stories, like the time the guards at the north gate learned the difference between assignment and equivalence ( = vs ==), are a hoot.

Posted in Coding, Humor, Resources | Leave a comment